Curing Cannabis
Trunk guide: controlled moisture + time. If your RH swings, your flavor dies.
Instant answer
- Cure is moisture stability, not “burping rituals.”
- Pick a target RH and hold it. Consistency beats superstition.
- Most people aim for 58–62% RH in sealed storage.
- Long cures preserve terpene profile; short cures usually don’t.
Targets that matter
Curing is moisture stability in sealed storage. The only “secret” is holding a narrow humidity range over time, cool and dark, without constantly opening containers. If you are unsure whether to run 58% or 62%, use the decision guide at 58% vs 62%. If you cannot measure RH accurately, start at Tools.
| Control | Target | Why it matters | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| Relative humidity (RH) | 58–62% (stable) | Stability prevents harsh burn, preserves aroma, and keeps moisture even through the bud. | Daily swings, weak nose, harsh smoke. |
| Temperature | Cool + steady (about 60–68°F / 15–20°C) | Heat accelerates terpene loss and speeds degradation. | Aroma collapses quickly, “flat” taste. |
| Light exposure | Dark | Light plus heat speeds quality loss. Store like it matters. | Color dulls, smell fades faster than it should. |
| Oxygen exchange | Minimal (only when needed) | “Burping” is a corrective action, not a lifestyle. | You’re opening jars daily “just because.” |
| Container | Airtight glass or controlled storage | Leaks cause RH drift and faster oxidation. | RH won’t hold, smell keeps dropping. |
| Handling | Minimal | Every “check” adds heat, oxygen, and physical damage. | Dusty trichomes, bruised buds. |
Reality check: if you can’t describe your cure environment by numbers (RH + temp), you’re gambling. Start at Tools.
Handoff from drying
- Don’t start curing wet flower. Curing does not “fix” an incomplete dry. It traps moisture and increases risk.
- Use the jar test: seal buds with a small hygrometer for 12–24 hours and read the RH.
- If RH is above the cure zone: you need more drying control first. Start at Drying or the deeper guide How to dry cannabis correctly.
Curing protocol (simple timeline)
- First 72 hours: stabilize RH in sealed storage. This is where wet-core problems reveal themselves.
- Weeks 1–2: moisture equalizes through the flower. Your job is consistency, not rituals.
- Weeks 3–8+: refinement. Harsh edges fade, aroma becomes smoother and more layered.
- Long storage: stay cool, dark, stable, and stop opening containers for entertainment.
Burping rules (use data, not superstition)
- 55–62%: you’re in the zone. Leave it alone.
- 63–65%: slightly high. Briefly vent, re-seal, and recheck later.
- 66–68%: too wet for comfort. Move back toward drying control and reduce the risk window.
- 69%+: treat as a problem, not “part of curing.” Don’t store wet product sealed.
Risk rule: if your sealed-container RH is consistently above 62%, mold prevention becomes harder. Get back into control, not denial.
Jar is unstable: fix it in this order
Unstable jars are almost always a chain problem. Fix the chain once and the cure becomes boring. If you are seeing high RH, start with Drying. If your smell fades while RH is stable, read terpene loss after harvest.
| What you see | What it usually means | First move | Go deeper |
|---|---|---|---|
| RH rises above 65% after 12–24h sealed | Wet core, incomplete dry, or you jarred too early | Back up to drying control and re-test with a hygrometer | Drying correctly |
| RH drops below 55% | Over-dry or too much air exchange | Stop opening containers. Stabilize with a consistent target | 58% vs 62% |
| RH swings day to day | Bad seal, bad meter, or too much handling | Verify seal and measurement before changing anything else | Tools |
| Stable RH but aroma gets flat | Heat, light, oxygen, or storage habits | Go cooler and darker. Minimize openings | Terpene loss |
If this is happening → go here
Failure modes (what to do now)
| Symptom | Likely cause | Do now | Read |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ammonia / sour | Stored too wet, low oxygen pockets | Stop sealing wet product. Reduce moisture and stabilize the environment. | Drying |
| Hay / grassy | Dried too fast, or jarred before the dry was stable | Fix the process chain. Control the dry, then cure stable. | Drying correctly |
| Crispy outside, wet inside | Case hardening from low RH or too much airflow during dry | Back up to drying control and avoid wind drying. | Drying |
| RH swings day to day | Bad seal, inaccurate meter, too much opening | Fix measurement and sealing first. Stop over-handling. | Tools |
| Musty / mold fear | Too wet + warm + sealed storage | Remove risk conditions immediately. Don’t wait and see. | Troubleshooting |
Minimal tool stack for curing
- Accurate hygrometer (and enough of them to avoid guessing).
- Airtight containers that actually seal.
- Optional humidity control (58% or 62% packs) to hold a stable zone, not to rescue wet product.
- Cool, dark storage so your work doesn’t evaporate away.
If you don’t measure, you’re not curing. You’re hoping. Start with Tools.
FAQ (tight answers)
- 58% or 62%? Both can work. Pick one and keep it stable. Preference matters more than opinions. Details.
- How long is real curing? Weeks, not days. Faster can be acceptable, but premium is usually longer.
- Do humidity packs replace burping? They stabilize moisture. They do not fix wet flower.
- Why did my aroma fade? Heat, light, oxygen exposure, and RH swings. Read the causes.
- Can cured flower still mold? Yes, if it’s stored too wet and warm. Control RH and temperature, then leave it alone.
- Why does retail feel dry? Supply chain reality. Read it.
Keep it boring
- Your cure improves when you stop touching it.
- Stability beats constant checking.
- Fix the chain once (dry → cure → store) and your results become repeatable.
System rule: every page should answer fast, then link deeper. If you can’t explain it in 30 seconds, you don’t understand it yet.
Deep dives and supporting pages
Use these when you want specifics, not general advice.
58% vs 62% Curing Humidity (Use the Right One at the Right Time)62% finishes and stabilizes the cure. 58% locks the jar for storage. Use the right humidity at the right time for stable jars, clean burn, and preserved aroma.Why Retail Cannabis Often Isn’t Properly CuredRetail flower is optimized for testing, shelf stability, and turnover—not a slow, jar-perfect cure. Learn why, what to look for, and how to improve it at home.Drying CannabisDrying is where most people permanently damage flavor. Use a controlled process, not vibes.Drying Cannabis Correctly (Even Dry, Clean Jar Handoff)Drying isn’t a timer. It’s a controlled slowdown. Dry evenly (not fast), stop swings, and hit a clean jar handoff so curing becomes easy.Why Cannabis Loses Terpenes After Harvest (and How to Stop It)Terpenes are lost through heat, airflow, low humidity, oxidation, and sloppy handoffs. Learn the exact failure modes and how to preserve aroma through dry and cure.ToolsThe minimal tool stack that prevents most grow failures. If it doesn’t change decisions, it’s noise.Cannabis ER (Instant Triage)Search a symptom (hay smell, jar RH spikes, harsh smoke, not flowering) and jump to the best match with linked fixes.
FAQ
How long should I cure for premium quality?
Minimum nine weeks if you care about smoothness and terpene stability. Many jars keep improving at 12 to 14 weeks.
Is 58% or 62% better?
58% is safer for early control and storage. 62% is the classic curing target for aroma development. Use the right RH for the right phase.
Do I need to burp jars?
Only if your data says you have a moisture problem. If RH is stable and in range, leave it alone.
Can I fix weed that is too dry?
You can stabilize it and reduce harshness, but you cannot fully undo terpene loss. Rehydrate slowly and extend the cure.
Next steps
Cluster map
Deep pages in this cluster. Use these when you want specifics, not vibes.